Sunday 29 May 2011

Thick Forests, Thin Air Part 2


A Note on Signal Catching:

On the mountains, the golden rule is that the simpler your phone, the more adept it is at "catching" signal. This practice of catching signal is an art in itself. It involves seeking out those specific areas where the mountains have chosen not to get in the way of the transmitting tower. But that is just step one. Once such a spot has been found or shown to you by the locals, you've to hold your phone in the same place without moving an inch, lest you let a mountain disturb this surgical operation. So we found a bunch of people huddled closely near these choice spots trying desperately to catch signal. By the looks of it, a movie on the Zen of Signal Catching might be catching on somewhere.

And we also found all the cheap phones winning the battle hands down! All the 1100s were having a field day at the "cost" of the hapless E5s, HTCs and the Galaxies whose owners felt like throwing the overpriced gizmos down the cliff. The soap boxes also had batteries that lasted through the trek while the big guns were all juiced out in one session of signal catching. So on a trek, a 1100 = win!

Day 6: To Nagaru

The morning exercise on Day 2 was more strenuous than the trek to Nagaru. No sooner than we started, we found ourselves at lunch point, waiting for everyone to gather and kill time till the afternoon was spent, on a precarious ledge with barely enough space to seat our bums. To make matters worse, the lunch point happened to be a signal catching hotspot.

On reaching lunch point, we all went through the customary sipping tea slowly and gobbling Maggi fast routine. We then switched to signal catch and tried to let our near and dear know that we're still alive. One man, who'd just said hello and heard the same thing in response before his call was cut, was satisfied that his family at least knew he existed somewhere. We didn't want to ruin it for Mr Silver Lining by pointing out to him that it might as well have been an echo or feedback.

Further killing of time was getting harder and we resorted to Hannibal's phone with its mix of music that was fairly well known to all of us. We hit the end of the playlist and had even started playing Bhaja Govindam. Finally, gloomy clouds approaching gave us the necessary leverage to egg everyone ahead. We finally inched our way to the Nagaru camp.

Nagaru was supposed to be one hell of a camp. The doomsday prophet at Base Camp had warned us of gales with wind speed hitting the hundreds frequently. The fine weather, however, made it looked benign and as an ideal location for snowball fights. Chinmaya and Pom made the most of their first encounter with snow, much to the annoyance of... you guessed it! Dadhies.

Nagaru Top

Day 7: Through the top and to Biskerithatch

After a rather sleepless night in the thin mountain air, rattled by hailstorm and sharp winds (both of the natural and the man made kind), we woke up at 3 AM to set off early. We were saved from trekking in pitch darkness thanks to ample moonlight and the ability of ice to reflect this light well enough. We trudged through ice led by Sherpa guides specially summoned up for this day's trek. The rush of adrenalin through our bodies made us forget for a few moments all the niggles and catches that would otherwise have been a big deal.

Just after day break, we reached the summit. The normal routine of how humans do abnormal things when they achieve such feats was played out with people running around in exhilaration. Sadly, routine makes for boring reporting.

After the cold cut short the lives of various overused camera batteries, they were vigourously rubbed between the palms of desperate camera persons to warm them into a few more snaps.

Through Sar Pass
The next phase of the trek involved sliding down rather steep faces of ice. This was sheer fun except for the part where ice gets into every bit of clothing (I really mean every bit!). The sliding was usually followed by some dance routines enacted to get this ice off your body. Yet, some people silently let the ice melt away inside and chose to preserve their dignity.

One of them huge slide downs
After a series of slide downs, we reached lunch point. Hannibal, who'd stolidly endured melting ice inside him, really wanted to get a move on and secured permission for us to go on without having to wait for the rest of the group. On going a little further, it was a little unclear as to what the route was. Pom wanted to desperately get a move on. The others, looking at further sliding action below, were a little more hesitant. Heedless, Pom pushed on. He was followed, much to everyone's surprise, by Supreeth who slid down after. The rest stood back, watching these two go away, making wisecracks at the expense of their hapless fates.

After a while, a 70 year old man from the group who much resembles Osho looked at these bunch of youngsters lounging away while waiting for the guide. He then stated, "I don't know about you guys but I'm going on." Thus needled, the young guns kick-started their engines and finally got to camp Biskeri.

Biskerithatch might as well carry the sobriquet The dhobighat of Himachal for the display of clothes the trekkers arranged on its lush lawns. Sliding on one's arse down steep slopes of melting snow is a wetting affair indeed!

The fiery argument between Hannibal and Pom surely deserves mention here. Its seriousness was such that it would have easily passed off as a glorious debate which was to decide the fate of two races locked in a feud for thousands of years. Both sides brought in a lot of colourful history, debated pros and cons, and gave up ground of their own in pursuit of strategic leverage. This entirely commendable, marvellous exercise was to decide whose version of the card game "bluff" was better, surely a matter that warrants at least this amount of seriousness if not more.

"My bluff is the real deal"

Day 8: Bandakthatch

Rumoured to be just as much the Switzerland of India as Khajjiar and Dalhousie are, Bandakthatch was a camp sitting on a sprawling lawn replete with breathtaking sights, patrolling Egyptian vultures and mule loads of mule dung. "How better to use this place than play lagori?",
suggested the camp leader. When no one bothered about it, he personally went to every tent and goaded people out into the lawn.

For the uninitiated, lagori has one team trying to pass a rubber ball and get the other team out by throwing it at them. The only catch in Bandakthatch (rhymes if you say it right) is that you've to dodge the generously laid out manure too or learn to like cutting cakes, as Hannibal refers to the act.

As if this wasn't complicated enough, the game, played with several variations across the country, sparked off debates every round it was played. Soup time ended lagori, coming to the rescue of Pom's hapless team which managed to lose every match that was played.
The lawns of Bandakthatch

How Koti cried Wolf

Nightfall brought with it pitch darkness and a need for Koti to step out into the woods. After availing of the woods' facilities, he came into the tent, all excited. He claimed he'd seen a fox or a wolf prowling about the lawn at which the dogs were continuously barking. Pom rushed out of the tent in sheer anticipation. On reaching the lawn, he looked eagerly out of the camp, where rumours were spreading faster than the winds atop Nagaru. A few seconds there and he started reasoning that wolves would never make it to that spot and that foxes were too timid to venture into a camp and linger on boldly. We wonder where his incisive reason was when he rushed outside previously. The mystery of the shining eyes in the dark, however, remains unsolved to this day. Skeptics claim it must merely have been a rival dog, but if they are to be believed, the world would be a very boring place without its ghosts, Yetis and Extra Terrestrial abductions.

Day 9: Back to filthy human surrounds

Every trek, especially the ones which put us in complete isolation of habitations for prolonged periods involve this shock period where we are reunited with the filth that we're actually products of. The whole experience screams "Your vacation is over! Time to get back to you crappy lives, buster!" And no city screams those lines better than the national capital itself.

In our case, the trek ended at a dusty, grimy dam construction site. We then got back to Kasol, spent two days in its forgiving, hippie pace before we made our way to Delhi. Just before parting with the mountains, we happened to try our hand at rafting on the Beas and Parvati that happen to run through their laps. That didn't live up to expectation thanks to the Ulsoor Lake like odour that emanated from the rivers. The expert in our boat didn't help our cause either, taking us through particularly tame parts of the river and avoiding many an exciting rapid while constantly reminding us of how much he hated Indians.

All in all, it was this tremendous experience that offered enjoyment, thrill and goodness in Himalayan proportions.


Wednesday 25 May 2011

Thick Forests, Thin Air Part 1

The Expedition: Sar Pass, 13,800 Ft (4,200 m) starting from the hippie town of Kasol and coming full circle, organised by the YHAI.

The Characters:

1. Chinmaya

Crazy about photography and can do marvels with his four year old obsolete camera which is on the verge of giving up. But this boy's talent lies in turning anything you say to imply something dirty

Codename: Pervy

2. Hannibal

Logical genius par excellence. Is also known as the 13th day Adventist given his legendary ability to contradict nature when it beckons to him each morning.

Codename: Dopist

3. Anirudh

Fun loving dude known for his uncanny abilities to unleash torrents of profanities fiercer than Siberian blizzards when irked. Doesn't bow down to anyone save one character. Frequently chants Waddup! in characteristic falsetto.

Codename: Dhadies (Thadis in Palakkad parlance)

4. Supreeth

The only dude with the capacity to bring Dadies to his knees. His greatest asset is his ability to establish contacts even in uninhabited reaches of the Atacama desert. At any given time, you'll see him reclined in an Ananthashayanam pose in the most favourable spot around.

Codename: Five star

5. Shankz

shankar_cool_s as his id dictates is quite the cool dude and more importantly, the owner of the famed 20X zoom camera. He prefers to swearing in foreign tongues so as to get away with it even in front of unsuspecting mothers and awe-struck children.

Codename: Shaitze

6. KoTI

Everybody knows who's KoTI. Spelled thus for his unswerving loyalty to TI going as far as to defend Texan IQs. Has the ability to unhinge Dhadies' toxic tongue more often than there are seconds in a minute. Also known for his not having taken offence in 11 years.

Codename: Gotakeashower

7. Yours Truly

Bird crazy rambler who pissed Dhadies off by deleting some of his pics to make way for birds (of the feathered kind of course). Quite the nature boy considering he never missed his 5:30 body alarms. Doesn't take tips from Hannibal in this regard.

Codename: Pom

Day1: Reporting to Base Camp

The crew reached Kasol, the base camp, on the afternoon of the 11th of May and chilled out for the day. Everybody save Pom was aghast at the sweet Poha that welcomed us there and immediately deemed base camp food uneatable. Other than the field director's doomsday prophesies, the day passed rather uneventfully.

The night did not! It started with all of us chewing our nails, sweating and promptly disowning Koti for his nearly profane joke during "culture-time". Only when it ended, cleaner than we'd expected, did we all release nervous squeals of laughter and looked at each other in sheer relief.

During the early hours of the 12th, Shankz felt something against his body. Suspecting his tent neighbour Pom, he was surprised until he figured out that the culprit was something little, fuzzy and had proceeded to lick him awake. He then endeavoured to rid the tent of its uninvited canine guest when he was accused of animal cruelty by Koti. On observing its affinity to Chinmaya's chappal, Pom threw one of the pair outside the tent and promptly closed it once the pup charged after it. He then slept well, proud of himself for having outsmarted a creature whose undeveloped brain was the size of a walnut.

Ze Base Camp

Day 2: Rock Climbing, Rapelling and the Sneaking out for dinner

Next morning, it dawned upon everyone in the tent that Chinmaya's chappal, which was used to bait the little pup, was missing. The walnut sized had had its revenge!

The rude 5:30 AM awakening, done by opening up our tent so that cold shivers shake us awake, was followed by morning exercise. In spite of the gruelling nature of the above mentioned activity, the base camp food did not taste palatable, leading us to discredit the age old saying, "A hungry man has no bad bread" and leading us to append "except at the base camp." It also made us determined to sneak out that night for dinner, the stringent 7 O' clock curfew notwithstanding.

The said sneaking out did happen after a session of rock climbing and rappelling. It also helped us give culture-time a well deserved miss and gave us a wonderful dinner in return. Expecting some action on returning, we were pleasantly surprised to figure out that YHAI had given up on reforming us already.

Rappel down

Day 3: To Grahan Village

53 pairs of legs used to much pampering in mostly urban areas were getting a gruelling reality check as we trudged our way to Grahan village. The bunch of us were quickly ahead of the pack, but kept pushing on under the assumption that some people were ahead of us. Koti fell behind owing to his obsession of clicking every leaf on every tree that we passed by. We reached the next camp way before time to meet a Gujarati uncle and his son, also part of our trek, displaying apprehension with regard to entering the next camp for the fear of scoldings. We cockily brushed his suggestion aside and swaggered in only to the chagrin of a bloodshot eyed uncle who felt very bad that we didn't trek with the rest of the laggards. At a later date, we found out the reason for the bloodshotedness. Hic!

Our discovery of Maggi stalls at these altitudes added refreshing variety to the camp food offered. We were also delighted that Maggi was to be our constant companion throughout the trek leading us to blow up more than 1.5 grand on Maggi and tea alone!

The discovery of the wisdom in the Arabian way of eating off the same plate saved us a lot of washing duty through the trek, starting from here. We also cherished the Christian custom of drinking off the same cups, leading us to unwittingly launch a secular movement of sorts.

Cricket Grahan style where a sixer = Match Abandoned



Koti's query:

After trekking through barely navigable routes for five hours, we were met with Koti asking us if Grahan village had a bus route. He claimed that his question was justified by the presence of one on Mt Washington.


Day 4: The padhyatra to Padri

The trek to Padri emphasised the term "painfully slow," something that would haunt us for the rest of the trek. We couldn't make it ahead even if we wanted to, owing to our dependency on the guide's knowledge of routes through the forest.

We encountered tilled patches of land fenced off by thorns and fallen trees in the jungle and learnt later that they were actually weed farms. Waddup!

La Lune from Padri


Day 5: Rathapani

The trek to Rathapani would've been normal if not for Pom spotting this neat walking stick, all by itself, on a seemingly treacherous slope. Given his tendency to foolishly defy authority, Pom coolly went off the normal path in an attempt to salvage the prized stick. On finding it, he proceeded to chuck it onto the normal path and make his way back. This attempt, however, resulted in it landing short and sliding down further along the slope. Chinmaya claimed that the stick was lost for everybody now. This irked Pom enough to go back further down the slope to recover his prize and slip a few feet in the attempt. This caught the attention of all the trekkers that were making their way to the slope, and for everyone who missed it, Supreeth offered exaggerated running commentary. Pom, already adrenalin pumped, started screaming back at Supreeth to shut his trap in an embarrassing display, which is quite comic in hindsight.

It was not so much for the possession of the stick as it gave Pom an excuse to do something crazy that this act was attempted. The stick was later donated to a fellow trekker looking for one at the camp site.

Camp Rathapani



Photo credits go to Chinmaya and Dadhies.

The next part of this post will detail how Sar Pass was passed through and later happenings.

For more pics of the trek, especially the birdlife, see